From War to Water: A Surfer's Story


by Megan Bryan

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The act of surfing—the wildness of the water, the rhythmic ocean movement, the confidence building it instills, and the rush the surfer gets from catching waves—actually has the ability to retrain the damaged neural pathways by reprogramming these pathways with a healthy, exciting experience. As one veteran puts it, "In war, you wait and wait and something horrible happens. With surfing, you wait and wait and something awesome happens."

“I am not just in the business of teaching surf lessons, I am in the business of changing lives.” The Marine regularly gets together with his “brothers” around Charleston, many of them badly wounded from war. But his heart, his passion, is helping others find healing, as he has, through the water.